Doxa is expanding their Sub collection this week with a new collection of GMT divers dubbed the 250T GMT. This watch marks the return of the complication which last made an appearance in the SUB 750T GMT released back in 2006, and with the 250T GMT, the watch takes a big step toward accessibility. The newest SUB takes a familiar form into new territory with no less than nine colorways available in 18 configurations, each set within a 40mm case that measures a (relatively) svelte 10.8mm in thickness. The OG dive watch from Doxa has taken a number forms through its life, and each stick to the iconic original formula, and that doesn’t change here, with historic DNA serving as the base for the new 250T GMT.
The expansive new 250T GMT collection is represented in Doxa’s now familiar color palette, from the classic orange ‘Professional’ and silver ‘Searambler’ as well as a newcomer, which is a vintage take on the black ‘Sharkhunter’ dial. The Vintage Sharkhunter is the brand’s first attempt at a gradient dial, which features a shimmering transition from a wark grey at the center, to dark grey at the perimeter. The execution is meant to serve as a tribute to the historic dive watch design through the ages, and it stands out as unique amongst the new references.
The news here is the return of the GMT hand to the SUB collection, and it’s been handled in a familiar manner, with a hollow 24 hour hand that mirrors the size and shape of the minute hand. The only exception is the Vintage Sharkhunter, which uses a red triangle tip atop a thin hand, pushing this design a bit further into that throwback territory. This is a caller-style GMT, meaning the 24 hour hand is independently adjustable, rather than the hour hand. A dual tone 24 hour chapter ring sits at the perimeter of the dial, offering a track for that 24 hand without getting in the way of the design as a whole. At a glance, you’d easily mistake this for a regular SUB 200T, and that’s kind of the idea.
The 750T GMT was a very different prospect, with dual crowns and an internal rotating 24 hour scale set within a 45mm case. That watch may be a cult favorite these days, but the new 250T GMT offers a far more accessible take on the idea that will undoubtedly appeal to a much broader segment of the market. With a diameter of 40mm (which sits quite flat thanks to the thin flanks) and a total thickness under 11mm, this watch sits in a real sweet spot for sizing without compromising on the strong identity of the design.
Also aiding in preserving the classic Doxa vibe here is the beads of rice style bracelet offered on these new watches. They can be paired with fkm rubber straps as well, but I’d strongly encourage buyers to swing for the beads of rice bracelet and nab a rubber strap as a spare part. This is the kind of watch you’ll want to pair with all manner of third party straps, but that OG bracelet look should always be a part of the mix.
The new Doxa 250T GMT is offered in the following dial colors: Professional – iconic DOXA Orange; Searambler – Sunburst Silver; Sharkhunter – Deep Black; Caribbean – Navy Blue; Divingstar – Vibrant Yellow; Aquamarine – Crystal Turquoise; Whitepearl – Pure white; Sea Emerald – Sunburst Green; and finally, vintage Sharkhunter. Each utilizes a Sellita based automatic caliber, and pricing begins at $2,450 on a rubber strap, rising to $2,490 on the steel bracelet. Doxa
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