Christopher Ward is taking a big step not just with their C12 collection this week, but also as a brand, with the release of a new watch called the Loco, featuring the brand’s third in-house caliber, the CW-003. The British brand looks to capture the same magic they had initially found in the C1 Bel Canto released in 2022 by once again taking inspiration from the high-end, haute horology creations, and translating these ideas in a more accessible manner. The result is this C12 Loco, which places a floating free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch in full display. Like the Bel Canto, the Loco makes a big impression at a glance, and looks to back it up where it counts.
The C12 Loco does indeed make a big first impression, and is likely to raise a few eyebrows among high-end collectors in a similar fashion to the Bel Canto. Christopher Ward certainly made inroads to this group with the Bel Canto, but this watch is about more than that. The fact that collectors of all stripes are paying attention is a testament to the quality with which they are executing high-level ideas. There may be some legitimate criticisms to be made here (not only of the originality of the Loco, but of the C12 as a whole), however, Christopher Ward is continuing their goal of building “premium watches within the reach of everyone” with the C12 Loco. Which is worth commendation.
The CW-003 movement is an evolution of what the brand initially called their SH21. It uses twin mainspring barrels that provide 144 hours of reserve in total, but that’s not the big selling point here. This movement has been modified in a way that moves the escapement components to the front of the dial, suspending the balance and escape wheel over the dial via two full bridges. Note, this is not an opening in the dial that reveals the balance. This is a re-worked architecture that fully moves these pieces to the top of the dial, connecting them to the going train underneath the dial. This is not a new concept, but it is the first time it’s been done on a watch that retails for less than $5,000.
This is a time-only watch displaying the hour and minute via separate dial ring that sits symmetrically above the balance. Here, you’ll find some similarities to other The Twelve references in the design language employed. It’s legible and modern, without distracting from the real drama of the dial. The base of the dial gets three different finishes, which include a vertically brushed section at the top, set over a matte finish base, and they are divided by a horizontal polished bevel.
Christopher Ward is offering this watch in four initial colorways, including a silver and black that lean into a more refined vibe. On the other end you’ll find bright blue and orange options, each of which can be paired to a color-matched rubber strap, or a steel integrated bracelet. The case itself is steel, and measures 41mm in diameter, and 13.7mm in thickness thanks to the box sapphire that must fit the floating balance within.
Overall, this is a compelling watch at any price, and while I may be judging it differently at $15,000 or $20,000, it’s hard to complain about this one being priced from $4,595 on rubber, and $4,825 on a steel bracelet. This is a watch that brings an out of reach concept to the masses, and Christopher Ward is quite forthcoming in disclosing their sources of inspiration here. It may lack the romantic quality of the Bel Canto, but the Loco packs a big punch in the C12 framework. Christopher Ward
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