Blancpain’s historic diver welcomes a new addition to the stable this week in the form of a 38mm case that will join the existing 42mm, and 45mm variations. The new watches feature the same familiar design that’s been carefully proportioned for the new size, and it will be available in steel, rose gold, and titanium. Even at this size, this is still a ‘big’ design that makes an impression on the wrist, it’ll just be a lot more approachable for daily use at 38mm. That said, there’s still a lot going on here, and if you didn’t care for the larger Fifty Fathoms Automatique watches, this will likely do little to persuade you. For everyone else, this will be a very welcome addition to the collection.
The Fifty Fathoms is of course responsible for laying the foundation of the modern dive watch genre (even if it didn’t launch in 1953), but in a different kind of way compared to a watch like the Submariner. The Fifty Fathoms has taken many forms over its lifespan, even spawning sub collections like the Bathyscaphe along the way. What it lost in a sense of identity, it gained in expressive personality. At the moment, the Fifty Fathoms collection houses no less than 160 distinct references, according to the brand’s website, boasting all manner of size, material, and complication. It’s become more than a de facto dive watch. It’s more of a lifestyle than anything these days. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t some serious dive watches to be found within.
The core Fifty Fathoms design can still be found in the modern collection, but it’s gained a far more premium sheen over the generations that have removed it from humble origins. It’s the same story for many modern dive watches, if I’m being honest. As a result, the Fifty Fathoms enjoys an “I don’t take myself too seriously” vibe that I appreciate. Heck, we even saw a Swatch SCUBA variation of the design just this year. It’s an expressive watch and the brand isn’t afraid to embrace that.
Okay, so what we’re getting here is the same great time and date Fifty Fathoms Automatique scaled down to 38mm. According to Blancpain, it’s not quite that simple. “Proportions have been carefully reworked to ensure balance, harmony, and presence on any wrist, whether slim or substantial.” This line from the brand’s website is particularly poignant, and whether true or not, the idea is something understanding. The most prominent detail at a glance with this watch remains the bubble-like bezel insert meant to evoke the same feeling of the bakelite found on the original. It’s a distinctive detail that sets this watch apart, especially when viewed at an angle.
Moving into the dial, we’re met with the same array of shapes that, even if they don’t all work together, do provide a level of quirkiness to the personality. Broadsword hands track against triangular hour markers, with Arabic numerals appearing at the cardinal positions. This is all set within a sunray finish base that can be had in blue or black. The scripted Fifty Fathoms mark remains at the bottom. Finally, and somewhat controversially, a date aperture is placed at 4:30.
I applaud Blancpain for offering the Fifty Fathoms in titanium across its lineup, which keeps the watch as close as possible to the original ethos of the concept. Although, like the others, it keeps the Blancpain mark branded into the side of the nine o’clock wall of the case, a detail that still feels wholly unnecessary, if you ask me. A bracelet with polished and brushed sections sits alongside a variety of textile straps allowing you to dial in the look from formal to, well, less so, but the chrome-like finish on the steel model will be tough to tone down.
Inside you’ll find Blancpain’s caliber 1150 with an impressive 100 hours of reserve on tap. The movement, complete with gold rotor, is visible through an exhibition back. Pricing begins at CHF14,000 for the steel reference on a fabric strap, and goes up to CHF15,000 for the titanium reference. Finally, the 18ct red gold examples start at CHF25,600. Blancpain
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