This year presented a distinct regression to the norm for the watch industry and its inhabitants, a hangover from the whirlwind Covid era which sent demand, hype, and prices soaring to unsustainable levels. While there may have been some pain for some, 2023 could be considered a healthy year overall, with the incorporation of new market segments and enthusiast groups brought into the world through what would traditionally be considered unconventional avenues. In truth, there was plenty to get excited about in 2023, and not just the cool watches that were released. Here are 7 takeaways from this year, and why they signal a positive outlook going into 2024.
Exotic Materials & Complications for the Masses
If you’ve been paying attention to the micro-brand (small independent?) space over the past few years you’ve likely noticed the influx of stuff like forged carbon cases, flyer style GMTs, bespoke movement finishing, innovative quick adjustment mechanisms in clasps, and many, many more things once considered reserved for higher price points and well established manufacturers. This year saw a big step in the maturity of what can be designed and manufactured at smaller scales and more accessible price points. This has brought a wealth of creativity and options to more enthusiasts than ever before, and forced bigger brands to reconsider how they market such features now that they are untethered to high-price watches exclusively.
This is a very good thing for the industry overall, and the recognition that smaller brands are getting speaks volumes to just how far we’ve come in these spaces. This democratization of creativity should have you very excited about what’s to come in 2024 from brands like Furlan Marri, Baltic, Formex, Christopher Ward, Ming, and many others.
It’s Not All About the Money
This may come as obvious to some, but it turns out that most watches aren’t the bullet-proof investment vehicles that some were touting in 2020 and 2021. The normalization of the market in 2023 has made this crystal clear, and while that may have pushed some out of the hobby altogether, it’s also broken down barriers to entry for many others. There are exceptions, of course, but if you ask us, watches aren’t interesting for their potential investment status. They are interesting for the stories they tell and what they can in turn inspire us to accomplish. More on that later.
It’s easy to get caught up in hype, big auction results, and celebrity spotting, but if there’s one takeaway from 2023, it’s that you better be in it for your own reasons. If you buy and wear the watches that make you excited, the more you can enjoy the hobby in your own ways rather than stressing over those external factors.
Genres Are Ambiguous
Watch genres have become all the more ambiguous this year, with brands seemingly embracing the fact that not all of us are divers, pilots, or fieldsmen. Watches marketed toward a specific niche don’t have to follow a strict set of rules, and how they are actually put to use varies greatly. These days folks think about watches that can Go Anywhere, and Do Anything, the GADA watch that’s a jack of all trades, meaning it’s suitable for weekend kickaround wear, right on up to business casual or thereabouts.
In reality, I think hyper niche watches are actually more interesting due to their stronger point of view. Watches are what we make of them, and the genres to which they’re assigned are really more of an aesthetic marker than anything else. There’s a fine line between an approachable version of a tried and true concept, and something that’s been watered down to the point of being generic and uninteresting. These are tricky waters for brands to navigate, but 2023 has blurred those lines even further.
Size Trends Are Amorphous
We’ve seen size trends shift over the years, and in 2023 it feels more than ever like brands are making great options across the board. Brands are rushing to create just 38mm watches, or 45mm watches for that matter, rather, things seem to have settled into a healthy range, with many models getting multiple size options. Additionally, and arguably more important, we’re seeing a greater emphasis on overall wearability than a focus on a single set of numbers.
This has carried over to how watches are reviewed on sites like this, with a greater level of responsibility on reviewers to contextualize the usual diameter/lug to lug/thickness measurements, which rarely tell the full story. Once again, there shouldn’t be hard and fast rules here around the numbers, but rather how the case and strap work together on the wrist.
The Localization and Fragmentation of Enthusiast Spaces
This one has been a long time coming, and 2023 highlighted the strength of the community in smaller, more localized spaces. While the stalwarts like WUS, PuristPro, and TimeZone are still alive and well, the growth of the hobby within younger generations has meant the use of new platforms like Slack and Discord to localize parts of the community even further. This has allowed for smaller communities that cater to specific groups of enthusiasts, and for regional meetups to blossom in the process. With more ways to connect and find a specific vibe in a community, the complexion of the hobby has diversified greatly, for the benefit of us all.
This has allowed for broader accessibility, and more exposure to the people that comprise the enthusiast base of this community. More and more brands are picking up on the power of these communities, getting them involved in their activations and local events. This will likely only continue into 2024, as walls continue to come down to make this a more inclusive space, rather an exclusive one.
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