I first handled the new Clemence Photic Diver MKII at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City, a show filled to the brim with watch brands displaying tables overflowing with new watches. Within minutes, I knew it was something different. That may sound dramatic given that at the time it was surrounded by earnest microbrands, each promising thoughtful designs, mass appealing dimensions, and obsessive finishing and details. However, the Photic didn’t feel like a watch from a brand trying to prove itself as it lay next to its small copper octopus display. It felt like a brand refining its take. There’s a big difference.
As a fan of the previous version and later the fantastic Munroe, I have come to appreciate that Tom at Clemence doesn’t rush into his designs. He iterates, refines, and lets them simmer until the appropriate time to showcase to the enthusiast public. The Photic II feels like a product of that patience. It doesn’t scream innovation — it whispers confidence while carrying the distinct Clemence visual language. And at roughly $870 on a bracelet, that whisper quickly gets loud.
Dimensions Done Right
It is important to start with the numbers on the new Photic MKII because they matter here. Measuring 38.5mm wide at the case and 39mm wide at the bezel allowing for better grip, just 10.5mm thick, and a compact 46.5mm from lug-to-lug, the diver doesn’t just chase mass appeal, it nails it. These proportions are crafted to work on nearly every wrist while maintaining a slightly larger visual presence for better proportionality. On my large wrist, the case felt balanced and grounded without ever feeling flat nor slab-sided. Its 10.5mm thickness is particularly impressive given its automatic caliber, 200 meters of water resistance, and slightly proud box sapphire crystal. In an era where dive watches routinely creep past 12mm and into visual heft, the Photic feels almost athletic and agile.
Case and Finishing
Finishing is solid and consistent though intentionally left simple and restrained. Brushed surfaces dominate nearly every plane of the case – keeping it firmly in tool-watch territory as many modern divers favor polishing to dress up the look – with small polished facets adding just enough lift to prevent the case from feeling austere. It lacks flamboyant bevels and gratuitous contrasting finishing here, instead focusing on clean execution for a lasting look ready to take on everyday wear. Edges are crisp, the transitions are clean, and it serves as a reminder that a refined dive watch doesn’t require complexity.
The crown protrudes slightly, perhaps more than strictly elegant, but it uses that real estate well. Deep grooves, combined with the generous real estate, allow for effortless manipulation of the screw-down crown. Though it could potentially become a snag hazard given how exposed it is, it struck me just how much I fight to access other dive watch crowns in comparison. It’s funny how often we struggle with undersized or over-guarded crowns on modern dive watches. The Photic MKII reminded me how satisfying a well executed, uninhibited crown can be.
Bracelet and Wearability
While I will admit I wore the watch primarily on a strap due to my sample missing the links needed for a comfortable fit on my wrist – something new owners will not struggle with – I did spend time with the bracelet both during my review time and back at Windup. Unlike so many others at this price point, the bracelet here reinforces the watch’s “no corners cut” ethos.
Beginning at the drilled lugs connected with quick release spring bars integrated in the solid endlinks, the bracelet continues on with a solid taper. With excellent articulation, screw-in links, an on-the-fly micro-adjustment system in the clasp, and the ability to quickly swap to another strap, the Photic MKII is set up for comfort. At this price point, it seems ridiculous to see this level of finishing and packed in features into what is typically an afterthought. If you are considering this watch, buy it on the bracelet. It is well worth the additional $100.
Bezel, Crystal, and Dial
Crafted from the more corrosion resistant 904L stainless steel and riding on a ball-bearing system, the 120-click rotating bezel snaps into place with authoritative crispness. Engagement feels deliberate without feeling stiff, allowing for precise actuation. The grooved edge provides excellent grip, easy to manipulate with wet hands or gloves, and the ratcheting feedback is satisfyingly precise. Inside is a domed sapphire insert, contrasting in color with lumed markers, adding visual depth while reinforcing durability. It adds to the intentionally unique visual design setting the Photic MKII apart in a crowded market.
Just inside, the box sapphire crystal does an excellent job combating glare, even under harsh light. It holds an unobstructed view of the dial beneath, only distorting its visual at the very edge. Here, holding a fine grain texture in pale grey, the Shoal model adds subtle visual interest without compromising legibility. At the perimeter, a blocked minute track matching the bezel in color creates a cohesive transition before crisp, sharply executed applied indices stand in for the hours with strong contrast. Just inside, a finer minute track runs uninterrupted around the printed dial text. At its center, the unique stylized hands each holding generous portions of lume extend to their given timing detail with the lume block on the seconds hand passing over the inside minute track, a nice symmetrical detail. Thanks in part to the heavy contrast in details along with the 10 layers of Grade A BGW9 Super-Luminova, legibility is fantastic regardless of lighting conditions.
One small detail here that does stand out in my eye as odd is the addition of two minute tracks. Typically, my eye skips the outer in favor if the inner despite the minute hand clearly indicating the former. However, in a watch so considered, it does seem like removing the inner track might have created more space on the dial allowing the wearer to appreciate the applied details a little easier. That said, the outer track does compliment the dual tone models and helps with the contrasting transition, a detail I tend to struggle with in other models though really enjoyed in the Shoal.
Movement
Inside beats the automatic Miyota 9039, the higher grade, no-date caliber from Miyota’s premium lineup. It is thin and reliable, allowing for the Photic MKII to maintain its thin profile and depth rating without encroaching on the calibers needed operating space. Further, Clemence pays special attention to regulate the movement to 3 positions with a stated minimum accuracy of +/- 12 seconds per day. Yet, this is where things get a little complicated.
With so much of the watch elevated – the case, bezel, dial, bracelet, finishing – the Miyota 9039 feels like the limiting factor. Rotor noise is faintly present, and by today’s expanding standards, the power reserve is modest. But here is the architectural reality: simply upgrading to the popular and stable SW200-1 or longer power reserve La Joux-Perret G100 would add nearly a millimeter of thickness. Moving to an SW300 would preserve the slimness, increase power reserve, and increase rotor stability, but would then increase price by a significant margin.
In other words, the Miyota 9039 isn’t a lazy choice. It is a strategic one. The 9039 makes this watch possible not only at this price point but at the thickness, and with dimensions being such an impressive factor in the design it’s easy to see why it was chosen.
Design Risks and Intentional Ones
The Clemence Photic MKII is not a vintage homage diver. It doesn’t lean into traditional details with timing numerals on the bezel and has some colorways embracing bold accents and unexpected combinations rather than tired muted tones. There are five options at launch, each with its own personality leaning heavily into the Clemence design ethos. For some, the removal of timing numerals and use of color will make it feel refreshing. For others it will feel like a departure from the tried and true formula.
The dual minute track – absent only on the gilt model – can make the dial feel slightly busier than necessary. It is one of the very few design elements that left me questioning the otherwise meticulous restraint. There is also the subtle tension between the tool-forward case and bracelet and the slightly dressier execution of the dial. It is not a flaw in any way, but a juxtaposition nonetheless. Whether that tension bothers you or intrigues you will likely determine how much you fall for the watch.
Final Thoughts
At roughly $770 on a strap and $870 on a bracelet, the Clemence Photic MKII doesn’t feel like a bargain, it feels like a challenge. It feels as though Clemence is quietly telling other microbrands — and frankly any brand competing around this price — to step things up. When this level of proportion, execution, bracelet quality, and bezel refinement becomes possible under $1,000, the bar moves.
I’ve been enthusiastic about the Photic MKII since I first rotated its bezel last October. It is a watch that feels exceptionally considered rather than calculated by a brand that is listening. The enthusiasts who secured one during the preorder will likely enjoy holding it over the collective heads of the community until production catches up to demand. Honestly, they’ll have earned it for being an early believer. The Photic MKII is not just good for a microbrand. It’s good, period. Clemence
