This year marks the 150th anniversary of Audemars Piguet, and they are leading the year off with a slew of releases in celebration. While the new perpetual calendar caliber 7138 is arguably the focal point, building on generations of the historic complication for the brand, they are also sending out the caliber 5135 in style with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”. This is the caliber that brought the Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar into the modern era in the lineage of the 2120/2800 of the ‘70s, and the 5134 of 2015, each representing a refined, ultra-thin expression of the complication.
The Perpetual Calendar in openworked or skeletonized configuration enjoys a robust history within the Royal Oak collection, showcasing the brand’s taste for the dramatic yet ultra-slim movement architecture. From the wonderful 25636 references of the ‘80s, to the modern 26585 and its array of variations (including the ‘Cactus Jack’ edition we saw last year), these watches establish a unique identity within the Royal Oak collection that seem to stand all on their own. The final example to house a caliber 5135 picks up on these qualities, embracing an old-school vibe while still exuding all the modern charm of the latest references.
Audemars Piguet have achieved this by using the openworked perpetual calendar pocket watch reference 25729 as inspiration. Thick sub-dial rings float over the calendar works of the movement below, which are finished in silver to contrast with the baseplate and bridge elements done in gold. Here, the sub dials and rehaut running the perimeter are rendered in deep blue, making this a dial that you could very easily get lost in without once getting a read on the time. Yes, the calendar functions must still be adjusted via pushers along the case wall, but I suspect that will be looked at as more of a charming quirk than an annoyance.
All of this is set within a 41mm titanium case with that famous integrated bracelet which, when paired with the sub 10mm total thickness of this watch, should make for a very easy companion, even on the daily were you so inclined. Audemars Piguet has used titanium within the Royal Oak collection before, however this is the first it’s been used for an openworked perpetual calendar (that’s not also a grand complication, at least), and it feels like a natural extension of the concept.
The final detail worth noting here is the use of the classic Audemars Piguet scripted logo at the bottom of the dial, which drives the inspiration home, and serves as a perfect celebration of this watch’s heritage and meaning. This watch is limited to just 150 examples, and the caseback gets a 150th anniversary marking around the exhibition sapphire. Pricing is set at CHF 175,000. Audemars Piguet
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