A. Lange & Söhne surprised enthusiasts with the release of the Datograph Handwerkskunst last month, representing a third unique configuration of the Datograph to be seen this year in celebration of the watch’s 25th anniversary. As fitting as the two revealed at Watches & Wonders were, the Datograph Handwerkskunst stands apart for its return to a Roman numeral dial and removal of the Up/Down complication at six o’clock. This is the first we’ve seen such a configuration on the Datograph since 2012, causing fans of the original to take notice. Oh, and the appearance of the Handwerkskunst dial doesn’t hurt, either.
Earlier this month, I was able to spend some time with this special Datograph at the Audrain Newport Concours & Motor Week. More on that coming soon, including an interview with A. Lange & Söhne CEO, Wilhelm Schmid. The anniversary of the Datograph brought a perfect opportunity for the brand to bestow their special Handwerkskunst treatment to the collection for the first time. This is a practice that began back in 2011, and this Datograph represents the eighth member of an exclusive club, bringing A. Lange & Söhne’s highest level of personalization and finishing technique to bear.
The technique employed for this Handwerkskunst edition is a fine tremblage engraving done by hand, resulting in a three dimensional structure that takes on a fine grain texture at a distance. This texture has been seen within the Handwerkskunst editions before, though this is the first to appear in a yellow gold case within the Datograph collection. Using a white metal case here would have felt like an easier choice, though Anthony de Haas, head of product development for A. Lange & Söhne, explains that the brand is always looking for ways to surprise, and cut against conventional wisdom. This isn’t a brand looking to resurrect their past, but rather to honor it in new and interesting ways. You can hear more from Anthony in this episode of The Deep Track Podcast.
What A. Lange & Söhne have achieved with this dial is a juxtaposition of their known finishing prowess within the context of the unexpected placement on the dial. Hand finishing to such a degree comes with the territory on this end of the food chain, and Lange has managed to express it in multiple ways here. The fine detail found on each of the dial layers elicits the same type of reaction that one typically feels when observing the movement, though it hits a very different note. It’s worth noting that, because of the nature of the detail in the dial, the usually densely decorated balance cock has been dialed down with a more open design.
The dial is more than just the base components, however, and Lange accents the tremblage engraving with beautifully finished hardware pulling more practical duty. The hands and hour markers are brushed flat on their surfaces, with deep finished chamfers, and if I’m being perfectly honest, these are the details on the dial that really commanded attention. The base texture provides an even backdrop for these kinds of details to shine through, and under a loupe, I found myself gravitating toward these elements that comprise the design of the dial.
This is a watch that is easy to get lost in, especially under a loupe, but it’s worth taking a step back and contemplating as a whole. Like many of you, my first reaction to this watch was excitement to see a modern take on the Roman numeral dial, without the Up/Down complication taking up residence at the bottom. Fans of the original Datograph have been pining for such an execution since it went out of production in 2012. It should come as no surprise that the configuration works just as well as you might expect, with a clean, uncanny sense of balance capturing that magic. However, in the metal, this watch is very much its own thing.
When the Datograph launched in 1999, it did so within a platinum case that measured 39mm in diameter, and 12.8mm in thickness. That might not sound all that thick, and it’s not, but the shape of the exhibition caseback caused it to stand up on the wrist in a slightly awkward manner. Wearability was only slightly compromised, and if I were reviewing the watch as new, I’d have likely noted it as an annoyance but nothing more. When the Datograph entered a new generation in 2012 with the Up/Down, the dimensions were massaged to 41mm in diameter, and 13.1mm in thickness, but more importantly, the shape was smoothed out a bit and the watch sat a bit easier on the wrist, even in light of the larger dimensions.
This Datograph Handwerkskunst, despite the Roman dial like the original, remains at 41mm across, and 13.1mm high, so while it may look a bit like a throwback design at a glance, it doesn’t feel that way on the wrist. Yes, the original wore slightly tanky, but the small footprint had a charm about it that is decidedly absent here. And that’s by design. Anthony de Haas explained to me that Lange isn’t in the business of making throwbacks or reissues, but is always looking for ways to push ahead. I think that’s a wise move, and the existence of this watch and indeed the modern Datograph Up/Down doesn’t take anything away from what the brand achieved with the original.
Because of this ethos, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is very much its own thing, distinct from the original, and from the Datograph Up/Down, and that’s exactly what a special edition should be. I can’t think of a more fitting tribute to 25 years of the Datograph than what they’ve done here. It’s not a rehashing of the past, and it’s not a thinly veiled take on the existing watch. It is a celebration of one of the finest chronograph movements ever made, and it manages to achieve this in an entirely unexpected way.
The Datograph Handwerkskunst is limited to just 25 pieces, a nod to the number of years that the Datograph has been in production. It joins a selective group of prior Handwerkskunst editions that I’d recommend acquainting yourself with right here.
Leave a Reply